LC Meridian

Issue date: 11/1/06 Section: Arts & Entertainment

Media Credit: Quinonez-Fontanez Photo by Rosa Elena Gomez

Taqueria Tlaxcalli
2103 Starling Avenue
Bronx, NY 10462
(347) 851-3085

Unlike any other restaurant in the Parkchester vicinity (or the Bronx, for that matter), Taqueria Tlaxcalli, is a fusion of authentic Mexican cuisine and décor, with just the right touch of downtown chic. Pedestrians cannot help but stop and admire the pictographic mural, an ancient Aztec form of writing, as well as the handcrafted artwork that adorns the opposite wall. Entering this Mexican grill taqueria is like walking into a mosaic of color and art with mahogany, café-style seating. And although the décor may be what lures you in - the food will bring you back again and again.

The name of this taqueria is derived from the ancient Aztec word, tlaxcalli, a thin cornmeal pancake, referred to by most Spanish speaking people as the tortilla. As the principal food of the Aztecs, the tlaxcallis were filled with meats to form tacos. But this taqueria has more than just tacos and refried beans. Open seven days a week from 7:00 a.m. to 12 midnight, Tlaxcalli's menu boasts a generous selection for breakfast, lunch and dinner. (Although you needn't rush to make the breakfast specials as you can order whatever you like, whenever you like.)

Media Credit: Quinonez-Fontanez Photo by Rosa Elena Gomez

Standout appetizers include the guacamole - which is the best I've ever had in my life and is a great start to your meal. A blend of avocado and cilantro with a splash of lime, this starter is served in a molecajete - a bowl of volcanic rock the Aztecs used to prevent the avocado from browning - giving the guacamole an authentic look and taste.


If you're in a rush and need something to take on the go that will also fill you up - then look no further than the tacos Dorados: an order of 3 fried tacos with your choice of chicken, steak or Mexican sausage. My personal favorite is the sopes: homemade tortillas served with beans, onions, cheese, sour cream & lettuce, with your choice of chicken, steak, salty beef, Mexican sausage or spicy pork. If you're in the mood for something a little heartier, then the torta is the way to go. Prepared with beans, mayonnaise, avocado, onions, lettuce, tomato, chipotle or jalapeños (Be wary - if you don't care for the spice, be sure to let them know!) with the usual choice of chicken, steak or sausage and served on a freshly baked Mexican roll.

Media Credit: Quinonez-Fontanez Photo by Rosa Elena Gomez

Be sure not to leave without ordering dessert. As always, there is an assortment to choose from, but it's the Empanadas de frutas de Temporada (fruit turnovers) that will win a place in your heart. Fresh baked daily, this dessert is not made to share. It's just too darn good. The gooey filling sweetened to perfection with cinnamon and sugar and a scoop of ice cream melted from the warmth of the flaky buttery crust is well worth an extra ten minutes on the treadmill. Pair this dessert with a cup of Tlaxcalli's robust Mexican coffee and it is the ultimate finale to an excellent meal.

Regardless of what you order, it is guaranteed to be fresh, well prepared, elegantly served and reasonably priced. ¡Buen provecho!

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